SPOTLIGHT
Designers Spotlight: Tessy Oliseh-Amaize’s Bold Vision for Luxury at Philly Fashion Week 2024
At Philly Fashion Week 2024, Tessy Oliseh-Amaize captivated audiences with her revolutionary 16-piece collection under her high-end bespoke brand, Tesslo. Known for her mission to redefine African fashion, Oliseh-Amaize’s latest collection blends African tradition with luxurious, avant-garde designs, marking a new chapter in the global perception of African fabrics.


IMAGE CREDIT: Tessy Oliseh-Amaize
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IMAGE CREDIT: Tessy Oliseh-Amaize
Tessy Oliseh-Amaize Breaking Stereotypes in African Fashion
With her collection, Oliseh-Amaize aims to elevate the narrative around African prints, moving away from stereotypes and presenting African fabrics as sophisticated, high-quality, and worthy of the global luxury market. “Outside Africa, when people hear ‘African prints,’ it’s as if they expect something primitive or poorly made. I’m rebelling against that,” Oliseh-Amaize stated. She describes herself as a “cultural rebel,” challenging expectations and demonstrating that African fashion deserves a place on the world’s most prestigious runways.



IMAGE CREDIT: Tessy Oliseh-Amaize
Collection Highlights: Traditional Motifs Meet Avant-Garde Design
This season’s collection builds on the momentum of her “Africa to the World” line, previously showcased at the Ankara Festival in Los Angeles. The collection at Philly Fashion Week featured designs inspired by African cultural icons such as the Oba of Benin, the Emir of Kano, and the Wodaabe tribe’s Guérewol festival. Elements like intricately structured coats, embroidered jackets, high-neck capes, and precision-tailored trousers reimagine these motifs with a modern, luxurious twist.
Oliseh-Amaize combines traditional African aesthetics with structured, futuristic silhouettes that resonate with a global audience, making her designs versatile and culturally rich.



IMAGE CREDIT: Tessy Oliseh-Amaize
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A Showstopper at Philly Fashion Week
Philly Fashion Week 2024 proved a monumental platform for Tesslo, drawing the attention of industry heavyweights like Mickey Boardman, editorial director of Paper Magazine, international fashion consultant Nicole Fischelis, and Project Runway star Prajjé Oscar. The show’s Afrobeat soundtrack, coupled with the bold runway presence of actor-model Sergio Delavicci and others, underscored Tesslo’s unique fusion of African and Western styles.
The runway brought to life Oliseh-Amaize’s vision: “I want to see Africans in the diaspora and non-Africans, whether in Tokyo, Paris, or São Paulo, wearing Ankara outfits—not just because they’re colorful or culturally appropriate, but because they are timeless, functional, and well-made.” This sentiment echoes her broader goal of establishing African prints as symbols of luxury, craftsmanship, and elegance.



IMAGE CREDIT: Tessy Oliseh-Amaize
A Visionary for the Future of African Fashion
Tessy Oliseh-Amaize’s work with Tesslo sets a powerful precedent for African fashion on the global stage. Her fusion of heritage and innovation challenges long-standing stereotypes and reshapes the narrative around African prints. With each piece, she invites diverse audiences worldwide to experience African fashion as both culturally significant and inherently luxurious.



IMAGE CREDIT: Tessy Oliseh-Amaize
Tessy Oliseh-Amaize’s work represents a powerful voice in redefining what the world expects from African fashion. Through her brand Tesslo, she is pushing boundaries, reshaping the narrative, and establishing African prints as icons of elegance and luxury craftsmanship. This spotlight on her vision showcases a new benchmark for African fashion, proving that African-inspired designs have a lasting place on the world’s most prestigious runways.
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AFRONISTA
Why Dr. Ngozi Okonjo-Iweala’s Fashion is a Game Changer for Women in Leadership
Dr. Ngozi Okonjo-Iweala’s approach to fashion is a powerful blend of cultural representation and professional empowerment, making her a style icon on a global stage. Here’s a deeper look into her signature style, the cultural impact it holds, and its influence on perceptions of professional attire.
Ngozi Okonjo-Iweala, former Nigerian finance minister, has been confirmed as the sole candidate for a second term as director-general of the World Trade Organization (WTO). The WTO announced that Ngozi has agreed to continue serving as the organization’s head.
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Dr. Ngozi Okonjo-Iweala Signature Style
- Ankara and Gele: Dr. Okonjo-Iweala is celebrated for her choice of Ankara fabric, a vibrant African wax print that brings Nigerian culture to the forefront. She frequently pairs her outfits with a gele, the traditional Nigerian head wrap that adds a regal touch. This style choice not only enhances her appearance but also conveys a sense of pride in her heritage. Completing her look, she often wears intricately designed bead necklaces that harmonize with her attire, creating a striking ensemble.
- Cultural Representation: Her attire reflects a deep connection to her Nigerian roots and has sparked a worldwide movement to embrace African fashion. The hashtag #BeLikeNgoziChallenge on social media captures the spirit of her style, encouraging fans and admirers to honor their cultural backgrounds. This trend has helped amplify African fashion, promoting traditional fabrics and styles as symbols of identity and pride.




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Impact on Professional Attire
- Challenging Norms: Dr. Ngozi Okonjo -Iweala has disrupted the conventional image of leadership in international institutions. By choosing traditional Nigerian attire over the standard Western suits, she subtly challenges the norms of what “professional” attire should be. This bold choice has sparked discussions on the scrutiny women in leadership positions often face about their appearance. She has spoken about deliberately cultivating her style to exude both confidence and cultural identity, setting a precedent for others to follow.
- Practicality and Personal Choice: Dr. Okonjo-Iweala has also shared that her signature style originated from practicality as a working mother. The simplicity and comfort of her attire allowed her to manage family and work responsibilities more efficiently. Over time, this style evolved into her hallmark, blending functionality with cultural expression—a reminder that professional attire can celebrate identity without sacrificing practicality.


Conclusion
Dr. Ngozi Okonjo-Iweala’s fashion sense transcends aesthetics, embodying empowerment, cultural pride, and authenticity. She demonstrates that one can maintain their cultural roots while breaking barriers in leadership, inspiring women globally to embrace their heritage confidently in professional settings.
DESIGNER COLLECTION
Six African Icons Designers Reshaping Global Fashion in 2025
African fashion isn’t just in the conversation—it’s leading it. It’s a seismic force redefining luxury, telling powerful stories, and showing the world what real innovation looks like, one stitch at a time. The continent’s top creatives are forging an entirely new aesthetic by grounding modern design in deep heritage, championing sustainability, pushing for gender freedom, and proudly centering their culture.
In 2025, these six African Icons Designers aren’t just making history; they are fiercely claiming their place on the world stage, ensuring African narratives are the future of high fashion.
The Game Changers: Meet the African Icons Designer
1. Thebe Magugu (South Africa) 🇿🇦

Thebe Magugu is more than a designer; he’s a cultural historian in silk and wool. His South African luxury label masterfully weaves cultural heritage into activism, tackling tough social issues—from gender inequality to the painful legacy of apartheid—with an aesthetic that is both politically sharp and unbelievably polished.
Magugu’s collections achieve an elegant, refined sophistication. He uses exquisite textiles to create ready-to-wear that carries symbolic weight, celebrating identity, the strength of womanhood, and the rich, complex history of South Africa.


As the first African designer to snag the prestigious LVMH Prize, Magugu has cemented his status in the elite ranks. From the runways of Paris Fashion Week to the steps of the Met Gala, his work is redefining what ‘African luxury’ means for Vogue, The New York Times, and the Business of Fashion.
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2. Anifa Mvuemba (Democratic Republic of Congo) 🇨🇩

Anifa Mvuemba, Designer visionary behind Hanifa, didn’t just adapt to the digital age—she set the blueprint. She made history by dropping one of the first-ever 3D virtual fashion shows, instantly resetting the standard for innovation in presentation.
Mvuemba designs for the modern woman who refuses to be put in a box. Her collections are a celebration of inclusivity, marked by electric colors, confident tailoring, and body-positive silhouettes. Her aesthetic is an energetic fusion of Congolese roots and bold, digital-native modernity.

Featured everywhere from Vogue to Harper’s Bazaar, Mvuemba is the face of a new generation of African innovators. Her work on the red carpet and beyond pushes the industry toward a much-needed future of inclusivity and creative technology.
3. Rich Mnisi (South Africa) 🇿🇦

Rich Mnisi is the designer of the moment, flawlessly blending Tsonga heritage with a sharp awareness of contemporary pop culture. His label is a loud, proud exploration of identity and gender fluidity.
Mnisi’s designs are fearlessly expressive—think daring prints, saturated color palettes, and completely gender-fluid cuts crafted from materials like silk, faux leather, and ethical fabrics. He doesn’t just challenge fashion norms; he bulldozes them, promoting pure individuality and a keen environmental conscience.
An essential voice in the conversation around African identity, Mnisi has partnered with giants like Adidas and BMW. His work has been a highlight at Paris Fashion Week and featured in Vogue Italia and Dazed.
4. Laduma Ngxokolo (South Africa) 🇿🇦

Laduma Ngxokolo’s MAXHOSA AFRICA is the global benchmark for modern African knitwear. His work is a beautiful, intricate tribute to Xhosa traditions, translated into pieces defined by striking color and complex craftsmanship.
His signature knitwear features authentic Xhosa patterns and motifs, reinvented into wearable, contemporary shapes. Ngxokolo uses only the finest materials—locally sourced mohair and merino wool—making his brand a leading example of supporting local South African industry.
MAXHOSA has graced runways at New York and Milan Fashion Weeks, demonstrating that ethical local production and profound heritage can define international luxury.
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5. Adebayo Oke-Lawal (Nigeria) 🇳🇬

Adebayo Oke-Lawal, the creative director of Orange Culture, redefined menswear by merging African motifs with elevated streetwear. His label is a powerful vehicle for challenging rigid perceptions of masculinity.
Oke-Lawal uses traditional Nigerian textiles like Aso-oke and gives them a modern edge. His designs—pleated garments, floral suiting, and expressive tailoring—tell intimate stories of self-discovery and emotion, embodying a bold, expressive, and inclusive new menswear aesthetic.

A fixture at Lagos and London Fashion Weeks, his work has been lauded by CNN, Vogue, and The Guardian for spearheading a truly revolutionary African menswear movement.
6. Imane Ayissi (Cameroon) 🇨🇲

Imane Ayissi is the rare Cameroonian designer who has successfully blended African cultural narratives with the meticulous demands of Parisian haute couture. He stands as one of the few African talents recognized by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture.
Ayissi’s couture is a masterclass in detail, distinguished by intricate handwork, sustainable techniques, and organic fabrics. He frequently uses indigenous materials like raffia and bark cloth, elevating African heritage to the absolute pinnacle of global precision.


A regular at Paris Haute Couture Week, Ayissi is celebrated for proving that African craftsmanship belongs on the world’s most exclusive stage. His collections are both high art and a form of potent cultural advocacy.
Beyond a Trend: A Cultural Mandate
Whether it’s the cultural power that Thebe Magugu and Anifa Mvuemba bring to moments like the Met Gala, or the sustainable luxury of Imane Ayissi and Laduma Ngxokolo, these creators are driving a revolution.
These six African Icons Designers are a potent synthesis of tradition, technology, and cultural awareness. It is a movement that doesn’t just celebrate Africa’s creative spirit; it insists that the world pay attention.
In 2025, African fashion isn’t simply following global trends—it’s drawing the map with African Icons Designer.
DESIGNER COLLECTION
IWA Designer Spotlight: Olivier Rousteing’s African-Inspired Balmain x Lion King Collection
In a dazzling convergence of luxury fashion and cinematic magic, Olivier Rousteing, the visionary Creative Director of Balmain, has unveiled an extraordinary collaboration with Disney to celebrate the 30th anniversary of The Lion King. This capsule collection not only reimagines the beloved classic through a couture lens but also reflects Rousteing’s deep personal connection to the story and his African heritage according to Vogue.

A Journey of Destiny and Heritage
Olivier Rousteing’s path to becoming a leading figure in fashion is as inspiring as the designs he creates. Adopted at a young age and raised in France, Rousteing discovered his Ethiopian and Somali roots while working on his documentary Wonder Boy (2019). This revelation profoundly influenced his work, providing a rich cultural backdrop for his creative vision.
Reflecting on the significance of this collaboration, Olivier Rousteing shares with Vogue, “When I watched The Lion King as a child, the message I saw was: choose your own destiny.” The collection symbolizes more than just a fashion statement; it represents Rousteing’s journey from an orphaned child to a global fashion icon. Like Mufasa, the central character of Disney’s upcoming live-action film Mufasa: The Lion King, Rousteing’s story of rising from humble beginnings to create his own kingdom resonates deeply with him.
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The Collection: A Tribute to Africa
The Balmain x Lion King collection is a celebration of African beauty and craftsmanship, merging Rousteing’s signature Balmain aesthetic with elements of traditional African design. The collection showcases luxurious fabrics, vibrant prints, and regal silhouettes that honor the continent’s rich heritage.

Design Highlights
- Colors and Textures: The collection features a palette inspired by the African landscape, with hues reminiscent of sunsets and savannahs. Luxurious fabrics such as silk and velvet are used alongside traditional materials like raffia, molded into structural dresses that evoke African textiles.
- Prints and Patterns: African-inspired prints and patterns dominate the collection. From sunrise motifs reflecting iconic moments from The Lion King to zebra-like prints symbolizing the savannah, each design is a nod to Africa’s diverse beauty. Rousteing has integrated ornate bangles and his signature shoulder pads, adding a touch of regality to the pieces.
- Collaborations with African Artists: Rousteing collaborated with three talented African artists to bring his vision to life. South African painter Nika Mtwana contributed an Afrofuturistic scene from the film, while Cameroonian artist Enfant Précoce created a wildlife-inspired design centered around Simba. South African painter Cassius Khumalo’s piece features the lioness Nala with vivid gold foil detailing. These contributions add depth and authenticity to the collection, celebrating African artistry.

A Cultural Impact
The collection’s impact extends beyond fashion into film and storytelling. Nigerian director Femi Oladigbolu has immortalized the collection in a short film, showcasing models from across Africa, including Kenya, Namibia, Rwanda, and Tanzania. The film emphasizes the concept of destiny, aligning with The Lion King narrative and highlighting the cultural significance of the collaboration.
In a poignant moment on set, actress Carmen Hickman reminded v of his roots and the love he holds within Africa. “She said to me: ‘Don’t forget this is your continent, this is where you come from, and you are loved here. You will always be loved,’” Rousteing recalls. This affirmation encapsulates the magical essence of the collection and the personal full-circle moment Rousteing experienced.
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Conclusion
The Balmain x Lion King collection is more than a celebration of Disney’s iconic film; it is a profound expression of Olivier Rousteing’s heritage and personal journey. By blending high fashion with traditional African elements and collaborating with esteemed African artists, Rousteing has created a collection that honors the essence of The Lion King and pays tribute to the continent that inspired it.
This Designer Spotlight highlights Olivier Rousteing exceptional ability to merge cultural significance with luxury fashion, creating pieces that are both visually stunning and deeply meaningful. As Olivier Rousteing continues to push the boundaries of fashion, this collection stands as a testament to his creative vision and the power of embracing one’s heritage.
FAQ
What is the Balmain x Lion King collection?
The Balmain x Lion King collection is a special mix of French fashion and Disney’s The Lion King. It combines Balmain’s luxury with African designs and Disney’s classic themes.
Who is Olivier Rousteing, the designer behind the Balmain x Lion King collection?
Olivier Rousteing leads Balmain and created the Lion King collection. His roots in Ethiopia and Somalia inspire his unique style and fashion approach.
How did Rousteing incorporate African cultural elements into the Balmain x Lion King collection?
Olivier Rousteing mixed African culture with Balmain’s style in the Lion King collection. He used bright prints, rich fabrics, and African craftsmanship. This kept the Balmain luxury feel.
What was the impact of the Balmain x Lion King collection?
The collection made a big splash, touching many people and changing fashion. It showed how fashion can celebrate and honor different cultures.
How did Rousteing collaborate with African artists and craftsmen for the collection?
Rousteing and Balmain teamed up with African artists and craftsmen for the collection. This partnership was key in bringing African culture to luxury fashion.
What is the significance of the Balmain x Lion King short film?
The short film by Nigerian filmmaker Femi Oladigbolu brings the collection to life. It tells Rousteing’s story and the cultural importance of the collaboration.
How does Rousteing use fashion as a medium for storytelling?
Rousteing sees fashion as a way to tell stories and share cultural tales. The Lion King collection shows his effort to mix luxury with stories that celebrate diversity and inclusion.
How has Rousteing’s personal journey and African heritage influenced his work?
Rousteing’s roots in Ethiopia and Somalia have greatly shaped his fashion. His experiences and cultural background are woven into his designs, including the Lion King collection.
What is the future of Balmain and Olivier Rousteing’s role?
The success of the Lion King collection might shape Balmain’s future. Rousteing’s focus on culture and storytelling will likely continue to influence the brand’s growth and impact in luxury fashion.
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